Words by Alex Freeling
––
Compared to touristy Bruges, Belgium’s capital is sometimes assumed to be all about business. But this small yet global city has a wealth of architecture, design, and old-school eateries that make for a fantastic weekend break.
Architecturally, Brussels is a city of contrasts. The Grand-Place, the medieval market square at the centre of the city, is flanked by guildhalls in a mixture of gothic, baroque and classical styles, rebuilt in the eighteenth century after the city was bombarded in the Nine Years’ War. The city is studded with groundbreaking Art Nouveau buildings including four townhouses by pioneering architect Victor Horta, whose own home you can visit in the Saint-Gilles neighbourhood, while the nearby Van Buuren house is a masterpiece of art deco. Today, Brussels continues to innovate, with examples of contemporary design such as the new French-speaking parliament building at Rue du Lombard 77.
"Architecturally, Brussels is a city of contrasts. The Grand-Place, the medieval market square at the centre of the city, is flanked by guildhalls in a mixture of gothic, baroque and classical styles."
What To Do
The city’s famed arcades are some of the oldest in Europe, and the first to be covered in glass rather than windowless. Galeries Royales Saint Hubert is deservedly famous and still contains an original glove shop dating back to 1890. Visit Tropismes, the beautiful three-storey bookshop, stop at Pierre Marcolini for chocolate, and then take a break at the beautiful old-school bakery Maison Dandoy. The house has been making biscuits for 190 years, they told me, and their famous speculoos “and all our other little sins” have been a Brussels favourite for generations.
For art, skip the Musée Magritte and head to BOZAR (a play on Beaux Arts) with its varied calendar of fine art exhibitions, installations and live music before taking a stroll through the Parc de Bruxelles. For design and homeware, drop by La Fabrika in the cool Dansaert neighbourhood.
Galeries Royales Saint Hubert
Where To Eat
For casual dining, visit Le Marmiton or Café Georgette for Belgian bistro classics like Carbonade, Waterzooi and Stoemp, served with the inevitable but top-of-class fries, cooked in beef fat. Or for something lighter, drop by the Noordzee seafood market. And what better way to extend a long weekend lunch or dinner than with a visit to one of the city’s atmospheric, wood-lined beer halls? Café Mort Subite is among the best.
Maison Dandoy
What To Wear
And what to pack? Brussels is an eminently walkable city, but thanks to its hilly neighbourhoods and wide open squares it can be cold even in spring and summer. The first order of the day is a dependable sweater, to layer over a tee or button-down shirt when the weather turns. Pair these with denim or chinos for a relaxed weekend, or consider bringing a casual suit: the trousers will serve double duty during the day, and you can wear the jacket for dinner or a concert in the evening.
The city’s tram network is easy to use and fast, but if you do intend to explore the city on foot make sure to bring shoes that can put in the miles. A classic pair of sneakers is a good option, but a suede chukka with a rubber sole will do just as well and add a touch of refinement.